Lets talk oil.

See that's what I was thinking... RP is way pricey and Quaker State IMO is way too over hyped... And I was never really a big fan of Valvoline so it seemed castrol was gonna be the oil of choice for my truck... Now just have to decide if I'm gonna continue to run Fram oil filters or if those K&N oil filters are really as good as they claim.

if it was a ford, i'd recommend stay with motorsport filters.. i know fram and k&n restricts the hell out of a ford motor

Rite on I haven't really read alot about oil filters so when the time come I'll be doing a ton of research to find what's the best for my motor

I have actually been doing tests when it comes to synthetics, and I have 46 of them to play with..... I have been comparing wear metal contents in the vehicles that I work on(almost all GM) running synthetics, compared to conventional......
Castrol does a good job, and is a good oil.... when they first came out with their synthetic, they had problems with the molecules breaking down after about 4500-5000 miles..... and it caused a few problems.... But since then, Castrol Synthetic oil is a top competitor........ There are the brand loyalists, who will bash certain other brand names.... just like truck companies....... when it comes to a oil choice, one is what weight are you looking for, and price.....
the mobile1 hasn't proven to be any better than the Castrol in the tests I have run around the phosphate mine I work at, and Its a little cheaper than mobile1..... At this point in time, I run the mobile1 in my vehicles, cause I get it at a screaming deal, due to the amount we buy at the maintence shop at the mine.........
Now, As far as filters go,
I have found that price of filter does indeed have some to do with how the filter is built, and how it performs....... I'd say, spend a little money on the filters, and be safe..... a filter is not something you want to come apart, and release wear metals and the filter element into your motor..... not a good Idea............. Id say to do some looking, but I have been running the more expensive filters from fram on my personal truck.... and I have been running oil analysis on it the last 6 months, and It seems to be doing a good job... Im paying about 12$ a filter for my 95 k1500 gmc.......

79_bronco wrote:

if it was a ford, i'd recommend stay with motorsport filters.. i know fram and k&n restricts the hell out of a ford motor

Really? I've read stories of K&Ns causing lower oil pressure because they flow more then most filters... interesting.

FaselZ71 wrote:

Rite on I haven't really read alot about oil filters so when the time come I'll be doing a ton of research to find what's the best for my motor

ACDelco, Wix, or K&N would be my suggestion for your truck

batty1214 wrote:

I have actually been doing tests when it comes to synthetics, and I have 46 of them to play with..... I have been comparing wear metal contents in the vehicles that I work on(almost all GM) running synthetics, compared to conventional......
Castrol does a good job, and is a good oil.... when they first came out with their synthetic, they had problems with the molecules breaking down after about 4500-5000 miles..... and it caused a few problems.... But since then, Castrol Synthetic oil is a top competitor........ There are the brand loyalists, who will bash certain other brand names.... just like truck companies....... when it comes to a oil choice, one is what weight are you looking for, and price.....
the mobile1 hasn't proven to be any better than the Castrol in the tests I have run around the phosphate mine I work at, and Its a little cheaper than mobile1..... At this point in time, I run the mobile1 in my vehicles, cause I get it at a screaming deal, due to the amount we buy at the maintence shop at the mine.........
Now, As far as filters go,
I have found that price of filter does indeed have some to do with how the filter is built, and how it performs....... I'd say, spend a little money on the filters, and be safe..... a filter is not something you want to come apart, and release wear metals and the filter element into your motor..... not a good Idea............. Id say to do some looking, but I have been running the more expensive filters from fram on my personal truck.... and I have been running oil analysis on it the last 6 months, and It seems to be doing a good job... Im paying about 12$ a filter for my 95 k1500 gmc.......

I've been doing my own tests as well on my trucks. I'm comparing Synthetics in my trucks and having them compared at each oil change. Its just taking me a lot longer then I thought.

merlin5577 wrote:

79_bronco wrote:

if it was a ford, i'd recommend stay with motorsport filters.. i know fram and k&n restricts the hell out of a ford motor

Really? I've read stories of K&Ns causing lower oil pressure because they flow more then most filters... interesting.

my oil pressure would drop dangerously low after 2500 miles after the motor warmed up with the K&N filters.. if i had an oil light, it would have come on lol almost the same with fram.. but i've run the motorsport filters in all my trucks and changed them every other oil change with zero problems or issues with pressure dropping

Motorsport? I'm assuming you mean Motorcraft.

oops.. hahahahahahaahahah.. sorry, hell bent on finding motorsport performance parts for my 400 lol

79_bronco wrote:

merlin5577 wrote:

79_bronco wrote:

if it was a ford, i'd recommend stay with motorsport filters.. i know fram and k&n restricts the hell out of a ford motor

Really? I've read stories of K&Ns causing lower oil pressure because they flow more then most filters... interesting.

my oil pressure would drop dangerously low after 2500 miles after the motor warmed up with the K&N filters.. if i had an oil light, it would have come on lol almost the same with fram.. but i've run the motorsport filters in all my trucks and changed them every other oil change with zero problems or issues with pressure dropping

So if the pressure dropped, the filter is flowing more oil, not less. A restriction would create higher oil pressure.

when the oil pressure drops, you get a valve tap.. meaning it's restricting it

79_bronco wrote:

when the oil pressure drops, you get a valve tap.. meaning it's restricting it

True, but its not the filter causing the valve tap. If the filter was restricting the flow the pressure would increase, not decrease. You said before when you run motorcraft filters the oil pressure doesnt drop. And I know from the specs on the two filters that the K&N will out flow the Motorcraft. I would bet money that you have another problem (maybe a worn oil pump) and the K&N filter is only making the problem apparent.

no worn oil pump, the motor was freshly rebuilt with a melidon(sp?) high volume pump.. ran a k&n on it with the first startup and 500-600 miles and it started tapping. everyone told me to stick to motorcraft, so i switched. did an oil change with my usual 4 quarts of GTX and 1 quart of lucas oil, motorcraft filter and my oil pressure never dropped below 50.

79, the problem you are describing is not caused by the filter. If you have a hose and kink it in the middle, the pressure from the source side goes up. The kink is your motorcraft filter. For some reason your engine needs that restriction to run correctly.

thats the way all ford motors around me have been.. 302's, 351w's, 351/400m's, 460's.. the k&n filter causes a valve tap from lack of oil after so many miles.. every ford guy i know swears by motorcraft oil filters for the simple fact that they don't starve the motor of oil after 2500+ miles

I like Batty's spill on the oil. Good stuff. I do agree on the Synthetic Blends, its either all or nothing, either converntional oil or full Syn for me. I am actually a bit backwards I guess. I use conventional oil in my newer vehicles and syn in the older ones. I am quite picky about oil changes really, but I do not believe in changing it every 3000. I think that is just a notion put in our heads all our lives to sell service, oil and filters. I like between 4500 and 5000, and my vehicle still has dark gold oil when I change it. And I have a buddy who takes it from me and puts it in his oil burner /leaker that has 280,000 miles on the ticker and still going with a little puff of blue smoke everytime he takes off from a light. Many people are not aware that engine oil will never ever wear out. This is why reclaimed oil can be cleaned and reused. However, as Batty says about the molecular structure. If its not first neutralized with its previous additives first, it can have an affect on the new additives and be an inferior product, although still hold lubricating properties but maybe not its wear inhibitors. So if Oil never ever wears out, then why do we change it??? The one and only reason we have to change our oil is it becomes diluted. When diluted, thats when the additives Batty speaks of start breaking down and the molecular structure is changed. I hate to suggest it, but a motor could live an entire life without an oil change. But it will be a short lived life due to increased wear. No matter how old the engine oil, as long as the engine is functioning properly, oil pump, etc, you will never seize an engine that has engine oil in it even if it has 100,000 miles on the oil. AT any rate, good info, change your oil, it does make your engine last much longer, BETTER lubricated also reduces friction and increases fuel mileage.

I run schaeffers in all my vehicles except the nv4500 in my 94 which takes the spendy gm synchromesh. Schaeffers has a molybdenum(probably not spelled right), additive that coats everything so you do not get dry starts. I was sold when the distributor came by and did a bearing burn test. The moly actually heats up and smoothes out the crevices in the bearing. I also had several oil samples done at a lab here in town and they came back clean as a whistle. I had a truck that previously had copper in the sample and after 2 oil changes, the copper was at a low enough level that it didnt flag it. Their grease is absolutely amazing too. After running the 5w30 in a couple trucks, i noticed a gain in mpg as well. It's $4.14 a quart so its no more than mobile 1 and is very impressive.

Moly is amazing stuff, Royal purple uses it as well.

Schaeffers is a really good lubrication product company..... I have heard nothing but good about their products......I have a friend in Idaho, who buys it in the case....... The only down fall that I have found with their stuff, is it is a B$#@% to find out here in no where UT.....

i could ask my distributor how you can get it out there

that would be really great if you could help a brother out

Ok, here ya go. my schaeffers rep is named Brad Kuchenbecker. Phone number is 605-786-2327, he is here in South Dakota. The main number to Schaeffers in St. Louis is 314-865-4100 or 1-800-325-9962. He should be able to tell you your nearest rep or give you info on how to order. Hope this helps you out!

Nice, I've been considering switching the mine Pickups over to synthetic oils, hoping they'll last a little longer, I will call and see what they have to offer............They might just get me to switch the company trucks over from dino oil made by chevron.

So, 20W-50 would be a little thick for winter?

76silverado wrote:

So, 20W-50 would be a little thick for winter?

a little thick is all..... your motor will turn over and run easier with a thinner weight oil......... at -60 f. my work truck was having a hard time turning over with 15w40, so i put in mobile 10w40, and it'd start no problem..... of course, diesels are more directly effected by cold weather starts than gas.