Radical concept?

Okay guys, I think i know the answer to this question already, however it has been a topic for debate for the last hour or so. SO, I figured I would open it up here and get your opinions on it....



I have been hunting for a motor for my car. IMPOSSIBLE to find due to my problem being THE problem with the motors.... anyways, i digress.

I have a 1997 Subaru Outback, running the 2.5l H-4 motor. The #4 cylinder is dead. I have NOT done a leak down and compression test yet to pin point why, but educated guesses from others with this issue on this car, and personal experience, its my exhaust vavles. They are not closing 100% therefore dropping the compression. I have looked into head jobs, rebuilds and new motors, believe me, I know all my options. I am not asking for what to do...

But here is my fascinating question. I was told that 9 out of ten times the valves are sticking due to build up and the car sitting for several years before it became mine. I was told that if I add a quart of TRANSMISSION fluid to my oil, it will help losen those valves up and I could get the use of my dead cylinder back.


Now, I have not done this, nor do I have intentions of doing this. my question however, is this. Does this work? Has ANYONE ever heard of putting tranny fluid in the motor to help vavles? I have been laughing at this all day, but before I reject it, i wanted to see if there was a legit idea here.

In my opinion, I would rather try Marvel Mystery oil, but frankly I doubt even either of these will work since this motor is so far gone already...LOL....

But bottom line is, what do y'all think about this man's suggestion on what to do with my car? LOL

Short answer, yes, it works. Long answer, proceed at own risk. Here's why;

ATF (diesel fuel will do the same thing) has additives in it designed to clean and scrub carbon deposits that would inhibit flow of the fluid. HOWEVER, they will go for ALL carbon deposits, not just the ones on your exhaust valves. So if you have any large chunks that you may not necessarily want floating around (oil galleys) your engine, you have now given them access to move around. Like I said, proceed at own risk. I've scene this do wonders, and cause catastrophic failures.

IMHO, you need to find out the true cause of the dead cylinder before trying to repair it. If your just guessing its your exhaust valves, any rememdy could do more harm then good. If you for 100% know its the exhaust valves stuck, give it a try. If your not certain, do not do it.

Oh, and for the record, ATF works well as a fuel and oil additive when used correctly, Marvel Mystery oil does not. Its a great fuel additive, not a great oil additive. JMO.

Well what harm can it do? I mean the motor is already junk. Either I replace it straight out, or I try this and see if it helps. If so, GREAT, if not, I am not out anything because I planned on replacing it anyways.... least thats how I look at it. LOL

4 out of 5 times, its cheaper to rebuild an engine then it is to replace it. The more damage you cause, the more its going to cost. Although it sounds like your already set on replacing it...

^ so i guess that means go fer it. or like i always say, "F*** IT."

merlin5577 wrote:

4 out of 5 times, its cheaper to rebuild an engine then it is to replace it. The more damage you cause, the more its going to cost. Although it sounds like your already set on replacing it...

I am sure that is true for just about any other car bud. Here are the numbers I am faced with, and believe me, there is NO exxageration here....


Rebuild means, new gaskets, three new belts, new head bolts, new water pump, new cam gears and several other odd things as part of the kit. 1600 JUST for parts, and due to my disadvantage of no longer having a garage, thats not including my mechanics costs of about 1100 for a full removal and tear down.


Replace used with 2.5 liter, CANNOT find one with out issues locally. Nearest one is just north of Dallas Texas. No joke. 2300 JUST for the motor, USED, not rebuilt. Plus 500 for shipping and still plus cost of installation.


Replace with rebuilt 2.5 liter motor, 3600 JUST for engine, plus cost of work.


Replace with NEW crate motor, 5500 just for motor, will also need new externals anyways, adding about 1600 again, plus cost of work.


Now here is where I have started to reconsider this idea. I found a 2.2 liter out of an outback sport. Same year. Single OHC. low miles, used and complete, 600 bucks. According to all the info, this is a DIRECT fit to my tranny and motor mounts. Only needs modification to exhaust manifold since it is single out on this motor, mine has a split out. So I need new/used headers. no biggie.

Thats why i was there looking at it, I can chew 600 bucks, and have a guy who will install for 400 and I can have my car dependable again. However, when we were talking, the guy mentioned this whole tranny fluid thing and thats were the conversation stemmed.



This is all my fault for not doing the research first. Up until 1996, Subie's all had SOHC motors and No issues. in 1997 they switched to DOHC on the 2.5 and failed. In 1999, they went back to SOHC for the out backs, and kept it that way for the next decade. PLUS add in our wonderful presidents friggin "cash for clunkers" program, and NOW, you cannot find these cars. The few that ran were traded, and crushed. If I had realized this before I bought it, I would have said NO. 1996 and older, or 1999 and newer is the better way to go. Too bad the only motors that fir this transmission are 1997 and 1998...LMAO

Frankly, I would rather blow this POS up and get another one. But I need it for transportation. I have personally put nearly 13K on it with only three cylinders fireing, and had no furthering issues. I expect it to die any day, but will keep driving it until then, or until it sells, or until I can trade it, or whatever. Least this is what I was thinking.

Now though, with the prospect of a workable motor for only 600 bucks, I am thinking in the next few weeks, papa may have a new motor in his car...LMAO.


Anyways, i know that was long winded, but bottom line, its either going to die, or be replaced, so if this tranny fluid idea has some merit, it wont hurt anything to try it...LOL... but I will probably not attempt it until i have the money for the option, just in case.

you should really talk to me about these things.. your pretty local and trust me.. ill find you a good running motor for cheap.. i just paid 1650 for a 6.0ls and a 5.3ls based motor.. for the run of the mill motor i pay between 3-500 and another 300 to throw it in... garanteed to run once it leaves my shop but im not saying its gonna last another 300k miles.. if your seriously interested lemme know by monday and ill make some calls.. im cutting you a deal already by only charging you 300 cause thats what i charge the dealers that bring me there junk..

i could even retro fit something fun in there if you give it to me for a couple weeks.. lol

There you go Junior, you can get a brand new 350 crate engine for under $1500...

On a serious note, if your going to do this, do this right. Dont just replace one quart. Replace them all. Drain the oil, and change the filter. Fill her up with ATF, idle it until its up to operating temperature. Shut her off and let her cool. Idle her again until she warms up and then shut her off and drain the ATF. FIll her up with fresh oil and a new filter. Do NOT place a load on the engine when its filled with ATF, or you can kiss your main bearings goodbye.

On another note. Before you do this I would fill the tank up with gas, and throw a quart of ATF in the fuel tank as well. Might as well go all out...

Good luck.

007jimmy wrote:

you should really talk to me about these things.. your pretty local and trust me.. ill find you a good running motor for cheap.. i just paid 1650 for a 6.0ls and a 5.3ls based motor.. for the run of the mill motor i pay between 3-500 and another 300 to throw it in... garanteed to run once it leaves my shop but im not saying its gonna last another 300k miles.. if your seriously interested lemme know by monday and ill make some calls.. im cutting you a deal already by only charging you 300 cause thats what i charge the dealers that bring me there junk..

I have looked. You are NOT going to find a usable 2.5l motor for this car locally for 3-500 bucks unless you plan to steal it. I have been at this, calling everywhere for months. Maybe a usable 2.2 or 2.0, but not a 2.5. But please go ahead and try, I am more then willing to be proven wrong.


Heres the specs, 1997-98 Subaru 2.5l H-4 Outback DOHC motor. 1996 and older will NOT work without new tranny and whatever, same with 1999 and newer. It HAS to be either a '97 or a '98. See what you can do. Please, prove me wrong.... :-)

I sincerely hope you are right, I really do. And If you can have it in and done in less then a day, (I can assist of course) I will be down. Meanwhile. I actually have several people interested in buying it, SO, this may all be a mute point! LMAO.....

Actually joe, here is what you can do..... Find some one with a running and relatively clean, Jeep Wrangler willing to trade, and I would rather do that....LOL....

Seriously. LMAO

merlin5577 wrote:

There you go Junior, you can get a brand new 350 crate engine for under $1500...

There, now there is an idea. But why stop there? LMAO.... Lets go nuts and use a 454 and a sectable 4wd drive T-case, I will lift it and run some swampers? LMAO


Actually, believe me, if I had the money to burn, That is more then likely exactly what I would do...LMAO

lol.. dont worry i will.. if i can find a escalade 6 liter for under 1500 i can find your motor.. the yard i deal with will find it for me and deliver it to my door.. what do you have to work with honestly so i know weather or not to get it? and do you want me to drop it in.. no offence but im not gonna do the leg work if im not making money out the deal.. i know i could have it by tuesday at the earliest..

First, just find the motor. Let me know what you find it for. The guys I have called that can "find" it anywhere have also looked, everywhere. The problem is that any motor they do find has a dead cylinder too and no warranty. This problem I have is not the fault of missuse, it is a design flaw. That is why they are impossible to find. The best I got was at a bone yard up near scrantan, 1300, but that was NO intake manifold, NO vavle covers, and NO water pump, along with NO garuntee. Its just stupid, but true.


However, please, if you can even find a running, decent motor at all, just let me know the price, and I will go from there. Fair enough?

sounds good. ill do everyhting in my power to help you out.. you know that..

Did you find anything worthwhile yet slammer?

nothing around my way at the moment.. if my guy finds one he said it will run me about 500

Thank you for all your help and advice here. However, this is now no longer an issue for me. As of about noon this past friday, the motor finally gave out. The temp guage spiked over hot and the motor started to smoke. After letting it cool off for a few minutes, then blasting my heat in the car in the 98 degree weather, I was able to drive it home. It lost what was left of its power, but the stupid little things still keeps kicking....LOL....


Anyways, as of noon on saturday, I put a deposit on a new vehicle. Once my EUC check arrives next week, I will pay it off and once again have no fear of the road. It has been a long hard road with this Subaru, but it can finally be laid to rest. I am selling it on craigslist as either a fixer-upper or a parts car for only a few hundred bucks. So wish me luck that I can get rid of the stupid thing and move on with my life.


What is the new tru... cough cough, I mean new vehicle? Well, your just going to have to wait and see when I post it up in the Pride and Joy forum with all the pics.